AN ELEGANT ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE A necklace, set with twelve cushion-cut sapphires, each within an old mine-cut diamond frame, joined by old mine-cut diamond five-stone links, mounted in silver and gold-- 15 5/8 ins. long , a bracelet-- 7 ins. long , a brooch, a ring and pair of ear pendants en suite (brooch may be worn as a pendant, ear pendants with later clip attachments), English, circa 1780 Beginning in the 1770s, there was a marked change in the general outline of women's dresses. Gone were the hoops, to be replaced with a kind of bustle, while the bodice became puffed out with deep plunging necklines, providing ample space for elaborate necklaces. New coiffures, with hair piled on top of the head, left plenty of room for long dangling earrings. This new fashion called for fresh jewelry ideas. The redesigned necklace from this period assumed three new styles. The 'rivière' was made up of a row of similar gemstones, set into individual collets, that decreased in size. The second type, a festoon style, was designed with a central element that also funtioned as a clasp. The third, and most elaborate, was composed of a series of graduating gemstones, set into cluster mountings joined by links. Stones included peridots, citrines and amethysts, as well as emeralds and sapphires. This type of necklace was usually accompanied with matching earrings, brooches and rings as is seen in the illustrated parure in which fine sapphires make up the central part of each cluster, surrounded by diamonds. It is secured at the back with a metal spring clasp, the then latest development replacing ribbons tied through metal loops. For an example of a similarly styled necklace with a double row of sapphires and matching earrings that is part of the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, see Shirley Bury, "Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era", 1991, p. 78. (5)
AN ELEGANT ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND PARURE A necklace, set with twelve cushion-cut sapphires, each within an old mine-cut diamond frame, joined by old mine-cut diamond five-stone links, mounted in silver and gold-- 15 5/8 ins. long , a bracelet-- 7 ins. long , a brooch, a ring and pair of ear pendants en suite (brooch may be worn as a pendant, ear pendants with later clip attachments), English, circa 1780 Beginning in the 1770s, there was a marked change in the general outline of women's dresses. Gone were the hoops, to be replaced with a kind of bustle, while the bodice became puffed out with deep plunging necklines, providing ample space for elaborate necklaces. New coiffures, with hair piled on top of the head, left plenty of room for long dangling earrings. This new fashion called for fresh jewelry ideas. The redesigned necklace from this period assumed three new styles. The 'rivière' was made up of a row of similar gemstones, set into individual collets, that decreased in size. The second type, a festoon style, was designed with a central element that also funtioned as a clasp. The third, and most elaborate, was composed of a series of graduating gemstones, set into cluster mountings joined by links. Stones included peridots, citrines and amethysts, as well as emeralds and sapphires. This type of necklace was usually accompanied with matching earrings, brooches and rings as is seen in the illustrated parure in which fine sapphires make up the central part of each cluster, surrounded by diamonds. It is secured at the back with a metal spring clasp, the then latest development replacing ribbons tied through metal loops. For an example of a similarly styled necklace with a double row of sapphires and matching earrings that is part of the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, see Shirley Bury, "Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era", 1991, p. 78. (5)
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.jpg "Source: Christie's")
.jpg "Source: Christie's")
.jpg "Source: Christie's")
.jpg "Source: Christie's")
